Wednesday, March 19, 2014

Scrappy Drunkard's Path: Piec-lique Tutorial

Hi Everyone!!

My friend Melissa (WeShallSew on Instagram) tagged me in a picture asking about a way to glue baste individual Drunkard's Path blocks. She is one of my biggest glue basting supporters, so of course I wanted to help. I started taking pics, thinking 2 or 3 might be enough, and I'd just post them on Instagram for her. Yeah, no. That didn't work out. Those 2-3 pics turned into 16, which might as well be a complete tutorial to share with everyone.

A while back, I posted a tutorial on making an inset Piec-lique circle, and showed how to cut it into quarters to make individual Drunkard's Path blocks. This technique is wonderful if you're going to have multiples of the same color combos in your finished quilt. Although, it probably won't suit your needs if you're going for a scrappy look.

Many of us have favorite cutting templates and rulers for Drunkard's Path blocks, but actually sewing the arches can make all of the hard work that we put into cutting so accurately be tossed out the window. There are many techniques out there for sewing these beloved blocks together. In addtion, there are also special feet for your machine. I encourage you to find what works best for you. For me, it's Piec-lique. I am additicted to it's accuracy. I love how easy it is, too.  And I don't have to use a single straight pin. Yep, not a one.

Piec-lique is such a versatile technique. It can really be used for so many designs, including the Drunkard's Path. Many moons ago, my mom made a pattern and tutorial called LeAnn's Pinwheel. It comes with pre-printed templates, and very detailed instructions to walk you through using Piec-lique to make Drunkard's Path blocks. What I'm going to show you here, is a slight variation of my mom's tutorial. My tutorial is meant to specifically help you whether you have my mom's pattern, or not.

If you scroll through this tutorial, you might think to yourself, "No way, Cristy! That's too many steps. It's going to take too long. I'll just keep doing it my old way." All I ask is for you to give it a try. I know the pain that a lot of you go through to make Drunkard's Path blocks, only to have the edges of the quarter circles not match up, even though you *know* that you cut it just right. I've seen picture upon picture of people ripping out stitches, or showing how they're just frustrated and unhappy with how their blocks turned out. It's not you. It's the chosen technique. This technique gives you accuracy and precision, without needing to buy additional tools, sewing machine feet, rulers or acrylic templates, which can all be very pricey. Give it a go. You might just like it. ;)

Before I get started, if you're not familiar with Piec-lique I highly recommend reading my post on the Piec-lique circle. In an effort to keep this tutorial as short as possible, I'm going to refer to information here, that is explained in more detail in the other post.


  1. Washable Basting Glue, with a fine tip.
  2. Spray Starch and a small cup/bowl. I prefer Faultless.
  3. Small stencil brush
  4. Freezer Paper
  5. Scissors - fabric and paper
  6. Rotary cutter and mat
  7. Iron - hot & dry
  8. Fabric of choice
  9. Sewing machine - I use 50wt cotton thread and 75/11 machine embriodery needles
Step 1: Create Your Template on Freezer Paper
If you're not comfortable with creating your own template, my mom's pattern comes with pre-printed templates. You can make multiple copies of them as well.

There are multiple ways to make your own:
  • Draw one, by hand, using Drunkard's Path rulers or your favorite templates.
  • Print one from a quilting program, like EQ.
  • Create your own in PhotoShop, Illustrator, or your favorite drawing program.
The template should be the unfinished size of your block, which will include the seam allowances. If you're block is 4", unfinished, the template should measure the same 4". 

This is a pre-printed template from LeAnn's Pinwheel.
Draw or print your template onto one piece of freezer paper. Be sure to preshrink your freezer paper, first! (I talk about this in the circle post.) To preshrink, lightly spray the paper side of the freezer paper with spray starch, and press with a hot, dry iron. You'll notice it "pulling" in length, not width. Press it until it's dry and is pressed flat to your pressing board. While it's still warm, gently peel it off your board. At this point, it's ready to draw or print your template onto. 

After you've put your template onto the freezer paper, iron this piece to the top of another preshrunk piece of freezer paper. Remember, shiny sides down!! Making your template from two pieces of freezer paper will make it stronger, last longer, and reusable.

Then cut your template apart to make the outer arch, and the inside arch/quarter circle. Be sure to cut that curve slowly and carefully, to make it as smooth as possible.

Step 2: Preparing Your Fabric
The Drunkard's Path block, that I'm making here, is 4" unfinished. So, I cut some scraps to 4". 
Please note that this is not the only way to cut your fabrics for this method. Find the best way for you, whether it be to cut a bunch of squares at a time, or to use your favorite templates. My goal here is to show you an easy and accurate way to piece them together.

Next, line up the 90* edges of each template piece to the edge of the fabric. Press in place with your iron, to make the freezer paper adhere to the fabric (Don't worry, it's only temporary. The freezer paper will peel right off). 

Then, trim away the excess from the inside arch, and the outside arch, leaving about 1/2" seam allowance to work with (don't worry, we'll trim it to a nice and tidy 1/4" after we sew).

Step 3: Turning the Edge
At this point, go ahead and spray some spray starch into a little bowl, or even the lid of your can of starch. Dip your stencil brush in the starch, and paint a bit along the edge of the fabric, very close to the edge of the template.

With your fingers, gently pull the seam allowance back against the template, and press it with your iron as you go. (I'm sorry that you can't see my fingers here, but I had to hold the camera and my iron with my only two available hands ;) ). This will create a very smooth crease along the edge of the template.

Be sure that the both ends of the curve are pressed right against the template. This is where I find most mistakes are made. Often, people miss pressing the ends up to the edge of the template, which will make it wing out, and create a wonky block (and not the good kind of wonky).

Oh yeah! Look at that! Nice and smooth. The starch helps make the crease crisp and accurate. And it helps the seam allowance to lay flat.

Step 4: Putting Your Block Together
Peel the freezer paper templates off of the fabric. I find that it's easier if the freezer paper is still warm from the iron. If it's cooled off, give it a quick tap of the iron, and the templates will come off easily.

Draw a fine line of glue close to the ege of the piece that has the allowance turned back.

Lay the piece with the turned seam allowance on your cutting mat, right at the corner. (If you prefer, you can put the glue on your piece, once it's on your mat.)

Lay the outside arch on top of the inside arch, while making sure to line everything up to that unfinished measurement that you decided on earlier (mine is 4").

Don't worry if you have to adjust it a bit. The glue will stay tacky long enough for you to get it in the right spot. I promise that this part will go really quick after the 3rd or 4th time.

Move the block to your pressing surface and heat set the glue, with a quick tap of your iron.

Step 5: Sewing Your Block Together
Clip the seam allowance to open it up for sewing.

See that sweet crease right there? That's your sewing line. You don't have to worry about maintaining a 1/4" as you sew. You simply keep your needle going down the path created for it by the crease. Start at one end of the crease, and stitch down to the other. I highly recommed doing this slowly, especially the first few times. Staying on the crease is key! If you'd like, go ahead and backstitch at the beginning and end.

Remember how I recomended making the seam allowance on this extra wide? Now it's a tool for you. As you're sewing, you can hold onto the edge with your fingers or a pair of angled tweezers, to give you a bit more control.

As you're sewing, be sure to check on the fabric underneath, to avoid making puckers.

And it's sewn!

Now, you can trim your seam allowance to a cute little 1/4".

Give your block a final press. And if you'd like, lay it back on your mat to make sure it's still the right size. If it's not, then somewhere during sewing you probably veered off of the creased line. Check your sewing line, and if necessary, you can easily fix it, buy pulling out a few stitches and resewing along the crease.

If you'd like to make blocks where the outer arch has the turned seam allowance, and the inner arch isn't turned, you can apply the same steps, but switch up which piece you turn in Step 4. You can make blocks that alternate which arch is turned, which can make nesting and piecing multiple blocks together a bit easier as well.

That's it! I hope you give this a try. It will be a great addition to your repitoire of techniques.

Happy Stitchin'!!

Friday, March 14, 2014

Double Wedding Ring QAL: Sewing the Apple Core Units

A couple of months ago, I filmed the videos for the Double Wedding Ring QAL, along with several other video tutorials. When I played them back for editing, the videos were garbled and unusable. I was so frustrated (and may or may not have taken it out on my video camera). I had spent all of that time making videos for you, to only discover that I had been talking to myself.

I bought myself a new camera, only find out (after opening it) that it didn't have the attachment for a tripod. What?! What camera, these days, comes without a tripod attachment? I decided to make it work, and used it to film the rest of the Double Wedding Ring videos. With the help of lots of double stick tape, the new camera stuck to the tripod, just long enough to finish the videos. I wish you could have seen the comedy of it all. But, I got it done! Whew!

Without further ado, let's make those apple core units! We're getting so close to being finished! After this part, we'll make our rows of apple core units, then assemble those into an acutal quilt.

Assembling the Apple Core Units:
This step relies on skills you've learned in previous videos: using the layout template, glue basting, and using the crease as your seam guideline.

For each apple core unit you'll need:

  • 2 assembled melon wedge pieces
  • 1 center piece
  • Basting Glue
  • Hot, dry iron
The full layout template needs to be pressed flat to a hard pressing surface, or securely anchored with pins. Take one melon wedge unit, and anchor it with pins to it's place on the template. Be sure to have the "A" arch pointing toward the center of the unit. Do the same with the second unit.

By lining up the intersection of arch A & B, to the corresponding intersection, on the template, you'll achieve the best results. The black lines should just barely peek out from under the edge of the farbic.

Next, you'll draw a fine line of glue on the edges of each "A" arch, then lay your center piece in place. Be sure to heat set the glue, after placing your center piece.

It looks so nice from the front!

Before sewing the arches to the center, along the crease of arch A, you'll need to do a little clipping to open up the seam. The video walks you through it in detail. These pictures will give you an idea of how to do the clipping.

You'll need to clip along the previously sewn seam line, and through the two layers of fabric: the arch and the center.

Blunt tipped scissors are highly recommended.

With your scissors parallel to the seam line, clip next to the seam, up to the arch A/center seam. Be careful not to poke through. This is why blunt scissors are important. (I apologize for the awkward position of my thumb. Taking pictures one handed, is not easy ;). The scissors kept wanting to fall to the side. )

And now it's open and ready to sew!

From the front, you can't see the clipping.

The last step is to sew the seams where the "A" arches meet the center. This is very similar to how you stitched the melon wedge units together. Be sure to watch the video, for some helpful hints. You'll repeat this process for each of your apple core units.  

And that's it! You've done it! 

Next up, I'll share how to assemble the apple core units into rows.

Thank you for stopping by!
Happy Stitchin'!

Thursday, February 27, 2014

Safari Moon Blog Hop & Safari Cruise Quilt Preview

Hi! Welcome to my stop on the Safari Moon Blog Hop! I'm so happy you're here.

Safari Moon is a stunning, bright and bold new fabric line by designer Frances Newcombe, for Art Gallery Fabrics. 

I had the pleasure of getting to know Frances at Spring Quilt Market, last year, in Portland. She was at Market to have a little fun, and to help wrap her mind around what Fall Market might be like for her. Frances is so kind, creative, and has a wonderful laugh. We got to know each other over many delicious dinners, and a few VooDoo Donuts, while we were in Portland.

When Fall Quilt Market came around, I was so excited to see the debut of Safari Moon. Her booth was stunning, and she took home the award for Best New Exhibitor. Just look at her booth!! Gorgeous, right??

I've been on a bit of a personal journey, lately. I am the daughter of a designer. An amazing designer. I've never really felt like designing was a big part of who I am as a quilter, until recently. (I'll go deeper into that story in another post.) Smack in the middle of my self-discovery, Frances asked me to be a part of her blog hop. I was honored. And I took it as a sign that it was time to do my own thing and make something that was from my heart.

I had been drawing some designs, and sketched this mini-quilt on my favorite Post-It graph paper pads (aren't they adorable?!). I knew this was going to be my Safari Moon quilt. The block is my own design, "Wonder", and was inspired by several traditional quilt blocks. (Yes, a pattern is coming soon!!!)

During the design process, and after a chat with one of my best friends, Melanie, I took a different path with quilt design. I decided on off-set blocks, flowing into a river of open space. As I cut my pieces, I placed and replaced them from one spot to another, until it became what I saw in my mind. (Clearly, I need a larger design wall, haha.) 

And Safari Cruise was born!! My intention was to create a gradual flow from the solids into the Safari Moon prints. Art Gallery Pure Elements Solids were a perfect match, naturally. They're my favorites to work with, as well.

I love the arty, yet modern look of the positive exposure of the solids moving into the negative exposure of the prints. It reminds me of looking at my old 35mm negatives, back when I actually developed film (remember those days?).

When Frances asked me which prints I wanted to work with, I accidently left her handsome zebras off my list. I was tickled when she sent some anyway, with a sweet little note. They became the perfect choice for the centers of my blocks. I adore the two little guys peeking out at the edge of the quilt.

I have grand plans for the quilting of Safari Cruise. Originally, I intended on finishing the quilting in time for the blog hop, but I was sick over the weekend, and it didn't get done. I will, though, and I can't wait to show you!

As I mentioned above, the block is my new design called "Wonder". I'm working on writing up the pattern, and plan to have it ready for you in a few weeks. It's a really fun block, with so many possibilities. It's just one more thing that I can't wait to share with you.

(This picture makes me laugh. The oleanders, in my backyard, are literally 12 feet tall, and they just about absorbed my quilt. It's like a jungle back there! In the spring, bright fuchsia flowers cover every branch. It might just be the perfect backdrop for a post-quilting picture of the quilt.)

I had so much fun playing with Safari Moon. I decided I needed a bright little pin cushion made with it as well. I stitched up this improv basket weave design with Paperless Paper Piecing. No templates. No pins. No paper piecing. It was a lot of fun, and very freeing. I'm working on the tutorial for it, and will share it with you soon (probably this weekend, during the blog hop break).

I hope you find a little inspriation, and a lot of joy from working with Safari Moon. It's available now, from many retailers. My go-to online store is Fat Quarter Shop.

The Safari Moon Blog Hop is just getting started! It will continue through March 12th. Remember to visit these fabulous ladies, as well!

February 24: Faith Jones at Fresh Lemons Quilts
February 25: Lindsay Conner at Lindsaysews/Craft Buds
February 26: Sara Lawson at Sew Sweetness
February 27: Cristy Fincher at Cristy Creates
February 28: Amy Smart at Diary of a Quilter
March 3: Lee Heinrich at Freshly Pieced
March 4: Teri Harlan at Sew Fantastic
March 5: Jane Davidson at Quilt Jane
March 6: Lynne Goldsworthy at Lilys Quilts
March 7: Sandy Whitelaw at Upstairs Hobby Room
March 10: Katy Jones at ImAGingerMonkey
March 11: Victoria Findlay Wolfe at Victoria Findlay Wolfe Quilts
March 12: Megan Bohr at Canoe Ridge Creations

Thank you, Frances, my dear friend.

Happy Stitchin'!

Thursday, January 2, 2014

Paperless Paper Piecing Tutorial: A Square in a Square, Squared

I'm so excited to share Paperless Paper Piecing with you! I almost don't know where to start. ;)

My mom, Sharon Schamber, developed the Paperless Paper Piecing technique more than 10 years ago. It is a simple technique, that allows you to "paper-piece" with precision, limitless possibilities, and no paper to tear out in the end. Once you wrap your mind around the technique, you'll discover the ease with which you can create, using Paperless Paper Piecing. If you've seen my tutorial on Piec-lique Circles, you're one step toward understanding Paperless Paper Piecing (PPP). Piec-lique and PPP are actually the same technique. Piec-lique is specific for curved seams, whereas PPP is specific to straight seams.

The Square in a Square block has been around forever. It's also know as an Economy Block. There are many ways to sew one together, including paper piecing and traditional piecing. Paperless Paper Piecing gives you another option. I hope that learning Paperless Paper Piecing, on a well-known and simple block, will help you discover what the technique is all about, and how you can use it with other blocks. Paperless Paper Piecing opens up many possibilities. Any paper pieceing pattern can be converted to Paperless Paper Piecing. I hope that you give it a try.

Paperless Paper Piecing designs are constructed upside down. We'll be layering each piece, in the reverse order that the pieces will be sewn. In paper piecing, we start at the beginning, and work out. With PPP, we start at the end, and work inward. This can be done because we are layering and glue basting, as we go. Sewing will be done once the entire block is assembled.  Sewing is done in the same order as you would, if you were paper piecing. The best parts about PPP is that the block is already assembled, there's no shifting or having to go back and forth from the front to the back (like with paper piecing), and best of all: NO papers to pull out at the end! Woohoo!!!

This tutorial is meant as an introdution to PPP. There are so many possibilities, beyond what I'll show you here. If you're interested in learning more advanced ways for using PPP and Piec-lique, you can find many bookspatterns and tutorials in my store.

Brenda, from Pink Castle Fabrics, and Katy from I'm a Ginger Monkey, have started the Economy Block Along, which is motivating many of us quilters to create with what's already in our stashes. The Economy Block Along is getting really popular on Instagram. Search the hashtag #economyblockalong for inspring ideas and color combinations.

Let's get started!!

First, you'll need to download the template for the Square in a Square, Squared PPP block. Click on the pic below to download. For printing, please make sure it's scaled at 100%. The printed block should measure 8". We will have an unfinished 8.5" block, when completed.

Two copies of the template need to be printed onto freezer paper. You can cut the freezer paper, to 8.5"x11", and print onto its paper side. Ink jet printers provide the best results. We'll be pressing the freezer paper, with our irons, and ink from laser printers tend to smear when ironing.

Let's take a closer look at the template. The block should measure 8". You'll notice several different symbols and numbers on the template.

  • Bold Number - This number indicates the order that the pieces will be layered. 
  • Dashed Line - This indicates which edge will be turned.
  • Number in a Triangle - This number indicates the sewing order.

  1. Fabric of choice
  2. Two Printed Templates, on Freezer Paper
  3. An Extra Piece of Freezer Paper
  4. Hot, dry iron
  5. Scissors - for fabric and paper
  6. Elmer's Washable School Glue, with a Fine Tip
  7. Spray Starch and a small bowl - I use Faultless
  8. Stencil Brush - 1/4" - 3/8" are good sizes to use
  9. Rotary Mat, Cutter and Ruler
  10. Sewing Machine, ready to stitch (I'm using a 50wt cotton thread, and 75/11 embroidery needles.)
**A note about freezer paper: If you use Reynolds, or another brand found at a grocery store, it will need to be preshrunk. When ironed, freezer paper shrinks in width (about 1/8"), but not length. Preshrinking it will prevent inaccuracies as you reuse the template. To preshrink your freezer paper, tear off your desired length, lay it shiny side down onto your pressing board. Lightly spray it with spray starch, and press it with a dry (NO steam) iron until it is completely flat and dry. Repeat for your second piece of freezer paper. You'll notice it pulling in on the width. Once it's dry and flat, it's ready to be used. If you order freezer paper from my mom, it doesn't need to be preshrunk.

Disclaimer: This tutorial is VERY picture heavy. When I'm showing something that might be brand new to you, I like to take pictures at each and every little step. It doesn't mean that this will take you forever to make (promise). I want you to have the best pictures that I can give you, for reference at each little step.

Step 1: Preparing the Templates

One of your printed templates will be your layout template. I prefer to iron mine to my pressing board, to keep it secure while I'm assembling my block, which is the reason for printing it onto freezer paper.

The second printed template will be cut apart, and used to turn the edges of your pieces. Iron this template to the top of another piece of freezer paper, shiny sides down. Apply a good amount of pressure to make sure that the two layers adhere completely, and without bubbles in between the layers.

Cut the templates apart, to give you at least one of each size to use for turning the edges of your triangle pieces. It's important that the edge of the template, with the dashed line, is cut nice and straight. These templates can be used many, many times. With the just the four pieces, you see in the picture, I've made 6 Square in a Square, Squared blocks. 

Step 2: It's Fabric Time!

For Paperless Paper Piecing, your fabric pieces do not need to be cut accurately (yay!). A rough cut, is more than adequate. I prefer to rough cut multiple pieces at a time, leaving a finger width (3/8" ish) all the way around. I just use my scissors for cutting. This excess seam allowance will be tool for you, when you're sewing. After sewing, you'll trim it off, to a nice and neat 1/4".

Press your templates to the back of the fabric. You can press all of templates 1-4 onto their fabric pieces, or press one at a time. It's up to you. You could also cut all of your fabric ahead of time, then press all of your templates to the back of the fabric, assembly line style. 

Step 3: Starching the Seam Allowance

We'll spray a bit of spray starch into the lid of the can, or a small bowl. It will likely foam up a bit. Once it settles, the liquid will be left. We'll be using the liquid for starching the seam allowances of each triangle piece.

Dip your stencil brush into the starch (it's just fine if it's still foamy).

Paint a light line of starch along the seam allowance, just next to the edge of your template. Be careful not to soak the edge of your template. Wet paper is hard to work with.

With your fingers, pull back the edge of the seam allowance, against the template, and press with your hot, dry iron. Turn and press only the edge with a dashed line on the template. Make sure it's nice and dry. If you hear a little sizzle, that's good. The sizzle tells you that the starch is doing its job. 

While the freezer paper template is still warm, remove it from the fabric. Repeat for each triangle.

Step 4: Layering on the Layout Template

Beginning with fabric piece #1, line the turned edge along the corresponding edge on the layout template. Use a couple of pins to anchor it in place. Remember, we're working from the backside of the block, here.

The blue line should peek out from the turned edge of piece #1. If you cover the blue line, the block will end up being too small. 

Repeat for piece #2.

Before placing pieces 3 and 4, draw a little line of glue on the outside edge of pieces 1 and 2. This will help anchor pieces 3 and 4, and stabilize the ends to prevent those wings that sometimes happen when piecing blocks like this.

Lay pieces 3 and 4, in place, and heat-set. 

Draw a line of glue on the edge of the pieces, where piece #5 will lay. Lay piece #5 in its place, and heat-set. Repeat for pieces 6, 7 and 8.

You're doing a great job!! Look how nice it's beginning to look! Don't peek yet! You would hate to move the pieces out of their places. 

Repeat the same process for pieces 9-12.

I love a nice intersecting point, don't you?

Oh yeah!! We're almost there!!

When placing your pieces, you can ensure accuracy by double checking that the edge of turned seam is letting that blue line peek out. If it's up too high, your point will be cut off. Down loo low, and your point will be, well, down too low.

For the final piece, draw a line of glue all around the edges of the final four triangles. 

Lay your square down, and heat-set. Make sure that you're placing it right-side down, if you're using prints.

Step 5: The Big Reveal!!

This is my favorite part. 

Remove your pins, and release your block from the template.

TA-DA!!!!! How'd you do?? I'm sure your block looks amazing!!

That wasn't so hard, right? Now, you have a completely stable, and secure block, all ready for some stitching.

Oh wait. I really don't like the dark turquoise that I picked for the center. Darn it.

Guess what?! Because it's just glue basted, I can easily peel it off, and place a new color in its place.

Oh yes. Much much better.

Step 6: Sewing

Let's go back to our layout template, and take a look at the numbers in the triangles. Find seam #1 on the backside of your block, and your template. You can tell that it's the first seam because it won't intersect any other seams. As you're learning PPP, it can be very helpful to label your seams with their sewing order. Once you get the hang of the process, you'll know which seams are sewn first, and may not need to label them. I use a regular old lead pencil for labeling.

Another thing I love about PPP, is that I can sew this entire block, at one time.

See the crease, there? We made that nice sharp crease when we starched, and pressed over the edge of the seam allowance. That is now your sewing line. No need to try to calculate a perfect scant 1/4" seam! Isn't this wonderful?!

Place the first seam under the foot of your machine, and drop your needle right onto the crease. You'll notice a little lump to the left side of the crease. This bulk is part of seams #3 and 4. Don't put your needle through this bulk. Sewing through it will cause a pinch on the front side of your block.

Sew right along the crease. There's no need to back-stitch, here, because you'll be sewing over each seam, as you continue. I sew with a 1.8 stitch length (or just shy of 2, on the dial of my Juki Tl-98Q).

You can hold onto the edge of the extra seam allowance, to help guide the seam, as you sew. If your allowance is too narrow, or your fingers are tired, a pair of angled tweezers works wonderfully.

If the seam isn't laying flat, angled tweezers can be very helpful for flattening it out.

This is a close-up of the bulk that I mentioned above. Keeping your needle just to the right of the bulk, at the end of a seam, will prevent any pesky pinches. 

After sewing seam #1, trim it down to a nice and tidy 1/4". You can use scissors or your rotary mat, ruler and cutter. I prefer to trim at my sewing machine, so I generally just use my scissors. Repeat for seam #2.

This is a good view of seam #3, and how it intersects seams 1 and 2. If you were to sew this one first, you'd sew right over the unsewn first and second seams.

Sew along seams 3 and 4, and trim.

Looking good!!

Give it a quick press with your iron, before moving on to seams 5-8.

Starting with seam #5, repeat the same sewing process for the rest of the block. For best results, press the back of the block after each round of seams.

On the final seams, #'s 13-16, I do back-stitch.

Take a look at that! I'm really happy with how it turned out. I hope you're happy with yours, as well.

Step 7: True It Up!

Press the block with a light spraying of starch, and your iron. Having it nice and flat will make it much easier to true-up.

After trimming, our block should be 8.5", unfinished.

To true up your block, go from the center out, lining up the 4.25" mark on the center points, and the 1/4" mark on the point on the side. This will give you an extra quarter inch all the way around the 8" design block, giving you your 8.5" block.

Trim, and repeat on the other three sides.

All trimed up and pretty.

Congratulations!! You did it! I hope you enjoyed learning Paperless Paper Piecing.

Don't go away yet. I want to show you how you can add a little improv punch of color, with PPP.

Bonus: Adding a Little Improv

As you're layering each piece, you can easily throw in a pop of color here, or there. Simply, off-set one of your triangles, anywhere in it's placement area, and add an additional piece. The additional piece needs to have one turned edge. You can place it anyway you'd like. 

There's no reason to stay on the lines. Have a little fun with it! Off-set your pieces, and add in pops of color, here and there. Your final result will be unique, and a lot of fun.

When you're sewing the seams, the seam you added will need to be sewn before the seam that it intersects. For example, I added onto piece #7. Before sewing seam #10, I will need to sew my new seam, connecting the new piece onto piece #7. Once you get the hang of it, a whole new world of piecing will open up to you!

The big reveal!

Here are a few of the blocks I've made (so far).

Very WoNky, and off-set. Lots of fun!

Thank you for stopping by!!
And Happy Stitchin'!